Adventures in Spain - Part Four of Eight

January 31, 2023-March 3, 3023 

Torres de Serranos and The Valencia Fallas 

Not more than a stone’s throw from the Florida State University Study Center is the Torres de Serranos.  The Serrans Towers is one of the twelve gates that formed part of the ancient city wall, the Christian Wall (Muralla Cristiana), of the city of Valencia, Spain.  It was built in Valencian Gothic style at the end of the 14th for knights and the nobility until the prisoners were transferred to the monastery of Saint Austin in 1887.century (between 1392 and 1398).   

The walls consist of very solid stone, as their main purpose was fortification.  However, it was also used for ceremonies, such as official welcoming ceremonies for ambassadors and kings, as it was (and still is) deemed to be the main entrance to the city.  After one of the main prisons of Valencia burnt down in 1586, the towers were turned into a prison for knights and the nobility until the prisoners were transferred to the monastery of Saint Austin in 1887. 

During the Spanish Civil War, works of art from the Prado Museum were stored in the building.  Modifications were deemed necessary to protect the art which included a 90-centimeter layer of reinforced concrete on the first floor to protect the art stored below. 

The towers is an important landmark and one of the best preserved monuments of Valencia.  Of the ancient city wall, which was pulled down in 1865 on the orders of the provincial governor Cirilio Amoros, only the Serrans Towers, and a few other archaeological remains of the period were spared. 

There was a restoration between 1893 and 1914.  In 2000, the stone surfaces were cleaned, giving the building its current appearance. 

At present, the Towers is open to the public.  During my visit, it was interesting to note the various groups of children on a field trip to visit the historical and archaeological site. 

As mentioned previously, the Towers is used for a variety of different official ceremonies of the City of Valencia.  The most famous of these is the crida.  The opening of the Fallas.  On the last Sunday of February, the Fallera Mayor (the “first lady” of the Fallas festivities) declares the Fallas open from a platform erected in front of the building, which is followed by the singing of the anthem of  the Valencian Community and Marcha Real.

Valencia Fallas 

There is no documentation as to when the Fallas actually began.  It is believed to be at least a few hundred years old with the first written records mentioning Las Fallas from the second half of the 18th century. 

The origin of the festival goes back to the tradition of improvising bonfires with old furniture to celebrate the arrival of spring, and it also coincides with the celebration of St. Joseph’s Day, the patron saint of carpenters. 

The Fallas are celebrated in March.  Although, as noted above, the celebration of the opening is on the last Sunday in February.  The five main days celebrated are from the 15th to 19th, while the Mascleta, a pyrotechnic spectacle of firecracker detonation and fireworks display, takes place every day from March 1-19.   

It appears that the festival has evolved over the years and has attracted people and artists from around the world.  Ninot (miniature sculptures) are created and ultimately burned at midnight on the 19th of March.  Ninots can represent famous people, politicians or extravagant fairy tale characters.  However, every year, a ninot from one of the fallas and a children’s ninot are pardoned by popular vote and placed in the Fallas Museum..   

I was unaware of The Fallas prior to my visit.  Unfortunate for me, I was leaving Valencia on March 1.  As I was preparing to leave my hotel, there were streams of people arriving to enjoy the festival.  I have heard from the locals that it is an event that should be experienced at least once in a lifetime.  Hmmmm.  From what I gather, there are events, exhibitions and parades throughout this period.  And, did I mention fireworks every day!!  It seems to me that it is a combination of the Festival in Rio de Janeiro, Mardi Gras in New Orleans, New Year’s Eve in Australia and with a display of fashion only available to Valencia, Spain all going on at the same time for nineteen days.  

I hope you have enjoyed the visit to Torres de Serrans and Valencia Fallas.